Poor Range (Mileage)
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not in cold weather, standard range battery rwd only has rated 230 on 100%. It really depends on how cold the ambient temp and how much you use cabin heat. I've seen people post 30-40% drop in range in really cold climate..
Your estimated range is affected by the same things that affect an ICE car....speed, outside temp., use of AC/heat, your overall driving style, etc, etc.....last night I charged my '21 Select RWD, SR to 100%, my estimated range was 306.....over night temps here in North New Jersey were around 25 or so.....my estimated range is a product of my driving style and all the other things that affect estimated range, some I can control, some I cannot control......some of one's driving style has to do with circumstance, example, a long daily highway commute....
First, let's take that 145 and figure it at 100%. 145/.9 = 161.
Second, "it's mentioned" is the EPA mileage, which you won't get unless you're, well, the EPA.
So you should compare YOUR pre-winter with YOUR winter. Expect a 30% hit if it's 20 degrees.
161 / .7 = 230.
161 is HIGH for a standard range in the dead of winter. Plan on seeing a number lower, like 140 in the dead of winter.
Your car showed 306 likely due to a recent update this week that reset the driving history and also charged to 100%.
no update this week and no resetting of driving history!!!!.....this number 306 is actually the lowest estimated range in the last two months....as I have said in many posts, my driving style and driving requirements allow me to have this high estimated range, which, BTW, is pretty darn close to actual miles...and no I do not charge to 100% very often, maybe once every two months, if that.....in warm months, a 85% charge will give me an estimated range of 300+ miles.....which, I will repeat, is very close to the actual miles I get.....my average mi/kwh is 5.2, that's the reason for my high estimated range
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Wow that is fantastic. And I thought I was doing good with 3.7 m/kwh with 2,200 miles on the odometer. One thing that is very clear is that proper one pedal driving is Very important in gaining regen miles to extend m/kwh range. Which I love - cruising the curvy country roads around here using one pedal is a blast.
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Do you use one pedal driving mode? If so, how many regen miles are you getting on a typical trip/day? This is a very important contributing factor in maximizing range.
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That is not acceptable to me. I see your concern here, Bharjeej. I'm also getting around 230'sh miles on a full charge on my supposed extended range of 300 miles specified for the Mach-E California Route 1 and I'm charging here in California where it's not as freezing cold as in the mid west or east coast. I'm trying to find out about battery warranty claims and so far, the 2 ford dealers that serviced my Mach-E were not helpful. I'll be watching for more feedback on this post. Hopefully, we get good answers/advice.
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Quick question - do you use one pedal driving mode?
Again I'll say, some of it due to how I drive, some due to circumstance....I am retired so no high speed commute....having had hybrids and plug-ins for the last decade plus, I have learned how to drive to get the best out of the battery....I go over 60 when I want to, have the AC and/or heat on if I need to.....I use the heated seats almost all winter, heat a few times/winter.....no jack rabbit starts, cruising to the red light, etc....most of my driving is under 40mph....some have described this as "granny" driving.....we all drive how it makes sense for us....I do not use 1-petal, don't like the ride, of course, if I practiced more maybe I'd get better, haha.....and I drive in whisper.....I would like to get more regen however.....in my c-max over a 5 year period, I regen'ed over 7000 miles, that was enough for a total years driving.....and again I'll say here in N. Jersey I am within 5-10 miles of everything I would need, so no long trips to go get some wine.....
Actually, Ford has stated that the 3 driving modes, and 1PD, all produce the same overall efficiency.
Your vehicle's guess-o-meter is recognizing the cold overnight temps. There is no warranty issue, there is no battery issue. If you wait until the temps are warm later in the day, and drive the route you are used to driving, you should get similar miles per kilowatt hour as you are used to - and the range will adjust to that.
Remember, low 70s is ideally battery temp. While 50 isn't "cold", it's 20+ degrees below ideal battery temp.
If you didn't understand the impact of cooler temps on EVs before you bought, that's a shame. Ford will handle a warranty claim, at 8 years / 100,000 miles, if you don't have 70% or greater of your 91kWh battery, as measured by them. Until then, read and learn.
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Source / link for Ford stating that the 3 driving modes and 1 pedal driving / or not, all produce the same efficiencies? I very much doubt that ever happened. thanks-
What changes is throttle response, aggressiveness of regenerative braking, and steering response. Overall efficiency is identical, because, well, electrical motors... What changes is your use of the vehicle - i.e. if you're in Whisper mode, if you treat the accelerator less aggressively you may see better efficiency. But, if you mash on the pedal to get to 70mph, you'll simply compensate for the difference in pedal response.
This is discussed extensively in another forum, which I can't link to because this forum changes the links.
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I disagree that one pedal is always (or even usually) optimum. Regeneration will never compensate for loss of momentum. Problem with one pedal is that, unless on cruise control, the velocity over time curve will tend to be more choppy with one pedal. Slightest foot off the accelerator, instant slow down -- yes, you can get some regeneration, but then you'll lose more than you gain accelerating back up to desired speed.
I personally have always used "low" as what I consider to be a nice compromise - have been doing this since I got a Chevy Volt in Oct 2015 and our MME in March 2021. With both cars, I get maxed regen by simply avoiding harsh braking, which engages friction brake. You'll actually get as much regen simply coasting to a stop while in the "drive" setting as you will with harsh deceleration in one pedal, plus, it's easier to maintain momentum, thereby avoiding need to accelerate to resume desired velocity.
But, as noted, my personal sweet spot is "low."
- Larry Weisenthal
Huntington Beach CA
One pedal driving is always better than braking, but it doesn't mean you have to drive "choppy". Efficiency reduced by: driving faster (more wind resistance, more heat in the motor), accelerating quickly (more heat in the motor), braking (loss of energy due to friction), running accessories like heat. I am annoyed if I ever have to touch the brake when I am driving 1-pedal and I don't have an issue keeping my speed smooth (except when I am letting it rip!). Optimal efficiency case would be driving at a slow, constant speed. In an ICE, there is a trade-off in speed because you have different gears, but we don't have that issue in an EV.
If you can 2-pedal drive, but never touch the brake until you are < 5 mph, that would be something to see. Every time you touch the brake, you lose efficiency.
www.fueleconomy.gov
If you can 2-pedal drive, but never touch the brake until you are < 5 mph, that would be something to see. Every time you touch the brake, you lose efficiency.
Where the Energy Goes: Electric Cars
EVs are 60% to 73% efficient, depending upon drive cycle (77% to 100% efficient if the energy recaptured from regenerative braking is counted).
www.fueleconomy.gov
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Firstly, it's not true that you only get regenerative braking when in 1 pedal! It's not true that "every time you touch the brake" you "lose efficiency" (relative to one pedal). The car is smarter than you think. When you press the brake pedal, the car's first choice is to engage the regenerative system. Only when you do harsh braking does the friction system kick in.
Regenerative braking: what is it and how does it work? | Auto Express
Regenerative braking turns your car’s kinetic energy into electricity to charge its battery and boost efficiency. Here’s how...www.autoexpress.co.uk
My Chevy Volt has a real cool display, which shows the real time "direction of flow" of electrons, either from the battery to the wheels or from the wheels to the battery. Every time you remove your foot from the accelerator (whether in Drive, Low, or one pedal), the flow instantly reverses, from battery to wheels changing from wheels to battery. And there is instant display of M/KWH efficiency. With stronger braking - whether by pressing the brake pedal or letting the car coast in drive or slowing the car more rapidly in low or slowing the car super rapidly in one pedal - there is faster regeneration, but at the cost of faster loss of velocity, meaning more electrons needed to go back up to speed.
When driving in "Low," one seldom needs to brake, if one drives carefully, and there is less in the way of the sudden deceleration which occurs with one pedal; easier to maintain a smooth ride. Note, I'm not attacking your driving skills; I'm sure that you do a great job of maintaining your momentum, but it's easier to maintain a constant speed in drive than in low and easier in low than in one pedal.
Anyway, I really do think, after 7 years of EV driving, that "Low" is the sweet spot, for everyday driving. Others may conclude otherwise. All good.
- Larry Weisenthal/Huntington Beach
Yeah, I understand what you are saying now and agree that "regenerative braking" in 2-pedal mode is efficient. (I was talking about friction braking above.)
So, at what point when you brake, does it switch over from regenerative to frictional braking? At least with 1-pedal you know the answer is never (until you hit the brakes).
Yes, the "low" mode increases regenerative braking in 2-pedal, although it still doesn't answer the above question. Is there anything on the display which lets you know the answer? I thought there was a setting that gives you a displayed braking efficiency value in the MME?
I don't agree that 1-pedal is making your driving more choppy once you are used to it. I actually find I have much better and quicker driving control with 1-pedal, but as you said, each to his/her own. The other thing I like, is I can easily change my driving mode from eco to racing without changing any vehicle settings (just by control of the accelerator pedal).
I do find it strange when I drive my wife's ICE vehicle to get used to the "old" way of driving. So, if you do that a lot (I try not to), then 2-pedal low mode might be a way to keep your driving method more consistent between EV and ICE vehicles.
So, at what point when you brake, does it switch over from regenerative to frictional braking? At least with 1-pedal you know the answer is never (until you hit the brakes).
Yes, the "low" mode increases regenerative braking in 2-pedal, although it still doesn't answer the above question. Is there anything on the display which lets you know the answer? I thought there was a setting that gives you a displayed braking efficiency value in the MME?
I don't agree that 1-pedal is making your driving more choppy once you are used to it. I actually find I have much better and quicker driving control with 1-pedal, but as you said, each to his/her own. The other thing I like, is I can easily change my driving mode from eco to racing without changing any vehicle settings (just by control of the accelerator pedal).
I do find it strange when I drive my wife's ICE vehicle to get used to the "old" way of driving. So, if you do that a lot (I try not to), then 2-pedal low mode might be a way to keep your driving method more consistent between EV and ICE vehicles.
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To your battery, cold does not have to mean below freezing. Think of it as coming from Miami where they break out the winter coats when the forecast says temps in the 50s.
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